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Discover an emerald ocean escape an hour from Phuket’s mercantile center, where elegance and history combine to reveal the island’s rich culture. |
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ISLE WITH A VIEW
Baccarat Magazine
Hong Kong September 2009
Nestled in scenic Phang Nga bay between Phuket and Krabi is the unspoiled haven of Koh Yao Noi. Getting back to nature here is a visual feast and no hardship.
Marie le Marie le Masne de Chermont discovers.
The Thai island of Yao Noi is like a bench fallen from heaven. One of those benches facing beautiful scenery upon which you can sit to relax and contemplate nature, a welcome observation platform to view the marvelous limestone cliffs that emerge out of the sea not far from the shore.
Although only a short longboat ride off Phuket’s east coast, this peaceful island is in Phang Nga bay is shunned by tourists. What luck! It doesn’t offer large sandy beaches-high tide only leaves a narrow band of yellow, while low tide exposes tiny rocky cones. Instead it has coconut tree plantations caressed by gentle waves. Along with its even quieter sibling, Koh Yao Yai Noi has grown up unspoiled, a tranquil, blooming garden with roads coated by powder-like red dirt.
After a swim in the emerald waters, my son and I ride our bikes to discover, in delight and amazement, this present of an island. Every turn of the wheel takes us through new scenery, unrolling like the reel of a perfect movie. Every hour of the day bathes the offshore outcrops, which spring out of the sea like many mini Poseidons, in different hues: variations of grey, purple, green, pink and red.
The shade of the rubber trees is welcome as the mercury rises rapidly. The roads are tranquil and nature prolific. No less than 900 species of birds enjoy the surrounding peace. Standing on the pedals, I feel my face burning red from effort; the mountain we have been climbing is testing my resistance, I can spot Corentin’s straw hat; he is waiting for me impatiently at the summit.
Koh Yao Noi doesn’t survive on tourism, but on fishing and harvesting rubber, coconuts and rice. The rice paddies undulate on the west coast along a mangrove. Nights here are calm; the island’s only village falls asleep quickly by necessity-the fishermen are early risers.
Our hair blow-dried by the ride, we happily throw ourselves in the awesome swimming pool at Koyao Island Resort. I usually prefer swimming in the sea, but here I cannot resist the mirror offered by the pool’s clear sparkling water, shining like an offering facing the rocky islands. I even forget about swimming as the view is breathtaking.
The hotel comprises 15 villas harmoniously disseminated in a beautiful coconut plantation. Rooms offer simple comfort and pleasantly open into greenery. A bamboo curtain isolates us from the night-windows do not exist here-and it is the breeze that fans us. We sleep with the tropical melody of nature’s noises.
After a couple of days in this enchanting garden, we transport our suitcases to the Six Senses, perched atop lush green hills. I always dreamed of having a house decorated by nature, a little like an eco lodge. Here 56 villas are made out of dense and fragrant tropical wood, all natural and raw materials. The architecture is a compromise between wood and immense open windows to the benefit of the beautiful scenery. The bathroom boasts a comfortable sofa as well as an open air shower.
As we rise, a private butler inquires about all our desires. The morning dawns on the most fancy breakfast I have ever tasted-and God knows my culinary memories are plenty. Imagine shopping in various fine food stalls to fill your plate; the boulangerie offers all sorts of breads, Viennese pastries and biscuits, and there is every imaginable flavor of ice cream. They even have my favorite cheese, monk’s head, which is notoriously difficult to find. Colored bottles of juices are aligned invitingly on the wooden counter. In the evening the bar bedecked with sofas and surrounded by water relaxes me, while the Italian restaurant, which has gushing cascade running right under the glass floor, amazes me. Massages, boat rides or simply chilling out: what should I choose? I only have one desire: to stay here forever.
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